Sicilia e La Seconda Conferenza

After a quick week, my boss, Flaminia, and I headed to Erice, a tiny town up in the hills of the island of Sicily, for a special event called Fly for Peace. The organization Fly for Peace hosted panels for dialogue on peace, an air show, and various events to support the peace and justice process in Israel and Palestine.(I would link their website, but it’s all in Italian – essentially the organization is an alliance of Mediterranean countries supporting Israel AND Palestine.) Flaminia moderated one of the panels on Friday and we attended other events throughout the weekend.

IMG_9614

We arrived in Palermo, Sicily on Thursday evening and were driven an hour away to Erice, which sits at the top of a mountain overlooking the sea and cities. I have never seen a place like this before! The island of Sicily is absolutely astounding and I hope I can go back and explore it again someday! IMG_9577 IMG_9586 IMG_9591We arrived at our hotel, a converted monastery, after experiencing the beauty Sicily has to offer. Dinner on Thursday night was with the other guests in town for Fly for Peace. I met an awesome priest from Kenya, Fr. Benedict. He was one of the few English speakers at the conference so we got to know each other quite well throughout the weekend. Fr. Benedict is a Capuchin Franciscan based out of Rome, he went to NYU for college after bing ordained in Kenya, and he is heavily featured on the Roman Capuchins’ website.

Friday was a very long day; the dialogues began at 9 am and continued until 7 pm. There was a break for lunch, which was delicious, and dinner was provided at our hotel. I ate my fill of the amazing Sicilian lunch so I wasn’t particularly hungry at dinnertime. Instead, I went for a long walk up through the mountains. It was fantastic! I went into town and checked out the local color, so lovely. I got to see the sunset over the sea – truly spectacular.

IMG_9696

On Saturday, there were more dialogues in the morning, followed by lunch back at the hotel. I was lucky enough to find a table with predominantly English speakers – Fr. Benedict among them! The panel that Flaminia had moderated included Ashraf al-Ajrami and Benjamin Rutland, two members of an organization called the Geneva Initiative that works to promote communication and understanding between the Palestinian and Israeli majorities for peace. As both speak English, I spent a lot of the weekend conversing with them about their lives and their work in Israel and Palestine. And, of course, I ate lunch with them on Saturday!

We were rushed to the opening of Torre Pepoli after lunch. The vision behind this ancient castle renovation falls perfectly in line with the Fly for Peace mission – the goal of Torre Pepoli is that is stands for peace and light throughout the Mediterranean region. The inside of the tower was totally redone and transformed into a multimedia, interactive museum and meeting space for cross cultural, political, and interreligious dialogue. A truly beautiful sentiment! IMG_9731

They fed us after this, and let me tell you – I was really excited for the table of goodies in front of me. Now, I’m not sure if you’ve ever seen Italians dive into a buffet but let me paint you a picture: Italians don’t understand the concept of lines or queues to begin with, add in a two hour presentation and the excitement of reopening a building that had been closed for decades and you have some very impatient people. When it was time for the aperitivo, I watched, astonished, as people DOVE headfirst into the food. I made several attempts to reach sandwiches and fruit, but was LITERALLY rebuffed as I tossed in the sea of hungry Sicilians. While I managed to grab two mini sandwiches, some fruit, champagne, and a dessert pastry, others had mountains of snacks on their plates – MOUNTAINS. Apparently, moderation does not exist in Sicily.

The feeding frenzy gave way to another hasty exit as the Saturday night festivities heated up. In the town of Trapani, down the mountain from Erice, a giant outdoor event featured my friends Ashraf and Benji, an Italian astronaut, and a famous Italian journalist. There were interviews, musical guests, and a rhythmic gymnastics show. In true Italian form, the whole event ran an hour and a half behind schedule and I finally was able to get a ride back to our hotel at midnight, before the final performance was even over.

IMG_9739

Flaminia and me!

Sunday was short – just mass in the piazza in Trapani and a quick lunch before Flaminia and I hurriedly escaped back up the mountain to gather our things and head to the airport in Palermo. It was a great experience, traveling with Flaminia. Once again, I was reminded what an excellent personal assistant I would make (although, thankfully, I aspirations are a bit higher). Overall, it was a challenging weekend, in that I had to be really on my game with my language skills. All of the panels were in Italian, most of the participants only spoke Italian, and I was the only American in attendance.

IMG_9611

not over it.

What will stick with me forever, among the awesome people I met and gorgeous scenery, is the food. Sicily is famous for their dolce, or sweets. Let me tell you, the pastries are real. I cannot wait to get home and attempt to make buccellatti.

IMG_9748

 I am so grateful for this opportunity!

Con affetto,

Sara

IMG_9672 IMG_9622 IMG_9609 IMG_9602 IMG_9598 IMG_9593

Bologna: A Beginner’s Guide

As a nearly official Italian, I’ve been getting lots of questions from family and friends about traveling in Italy. While I am glad I got to see quite a bit of Italy, I only feel solidly confident giving advice on what to do, what to see, and where to eat in the lovely town of Bologna! I’m sure by the end of the summer, I’ll feel the same about Rome, but for now I have a beginner’s guide to BOLO!
IMG_6527
Bologna is awesome! However, it was not necessarily designed for tourism. It does have museums  (I love the Archiginnasio and the Jewish History Museum) and the “Seven Secrets” of Bologna. The Bologna Museum of Modern Art (MAMBo) also gets rave reviews, but I never got the opportunity to check it out.
It’s disputed what actually qualifies as the OFFICIAL Seven Secrets, but I know them as follows:
DSC_0030
1. The vase on top of the higher tower, Asinelli
2. Piccola Venezia
3. The Arrows in the portico over Strada Maggiore (Legend has it that the city was being invaded but a woman in a window distracted the attackers as they released their arrows, leaving them in a wooden portico, one of the oldest in the city)
4. Little Neptune (If you stand behind him in the right spot, it looks like he is very well endowed)
DSC_0091
5. The Whispering Walls
6. Panem Vita, Canabis Protectio, Vinum Laetitia in Via dell’Indipendenza
7. From Porta Saragozza to the Sanctuary of Madonna di San Luca there are 666 arches in the porticoes
The real fun in Bologna is in walking around Piazza Maggiore and Le Due Torri. There are cute local shops and markets. It’s very colorful! Some of my favorite streets to wander down are Via Caprarie, Via Drapperie, Via Pescherie Vecchie, Via Oberdan and Via Clavature.
Bologna by far has the BEST restaurants! Bologna, “La Grassa” or “the fat,” is in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, otherwise known as the Stomach of Italy.
DSC_0025
My personal favorites:
Osteria dell’Orsa on Via Mentana
Banco del Vino also on Via Mentana (specialty pizza!)
Trattoria Mariposa on Via Beritera (pastas and salad)
La Mela on Via de Fusari (right off of Piazza Maggiore, pizza or pasta)
Trattoria del Rosso on Via Augusto Righi
Le Stanze on Via Borgo di San Pietro (great aperitivo)
Osteria Marsalino on Via Marsala (good place for drinks and snacks)
C’era una Volta on Via d’Azeglio
La Tua Piadina on Via Borgonuovo (sandwich place for a quick lunch)
Swine Bar on Via Augusto Righi (also fun for a drink)
Osteria de Poeti on Via de Poeti
IMG_6517
While in Bologna you MUST have lasagna and tagliatelle di ragu. Both originated in the town. Other Bologna specialties are tortellini in brodo, which is like tortellini soup, and mortadella, where we get the American bologna. For gelato, avoid Grom, it’s a chain restaurant and therefore less authentic. Cremeria Funivia in Piazza Cavour is awesome, as are Sorbetteria Castiglione on Via Castiglione and Cremeria Sette Chiese on Via Santo Stefano. Most things are closed on Sundays and Mondays (which is very typical of Italy in general) so keep that in mind as you travel!
Most of the bars and clubs are in the University zone of the city. Piazza Verdi, Via Zamboni, and Via Petroni are particularly raucous at all hours of the night. For a drink, I always liked Cafe Paris on Via Petroni, Cluricuane (an Irish pub) on Via Zamboni, and L’Ortica (a wine bar, much chiller scene) on Via Mascarella. Also, Momus in Piazza San Martino is always a hit. They have this amazing (but deadly) drink called the Magic Sam! My plan is try to recreate it in the States, but we’ll see if I can do as well!
IMG_6626
The easiest way to get around Bologna is to walk. Within the walls, it takes about 25 – 30 minutes to walk from the west side of the city to the east. There are also buses, but I didn’t mess with the bus system much – they’re notorious for being late.
I hope that Bologna becomes more popular in the future, as it is definitely one of the most unique cities in Italy!
Con affetto,
Sara